From Tailors to Pattern Cutters: Who’s Funding Africa’s Fashion Industry?
AFDI is a new initiative aiming to provide financial opportunities for everyone involved in shaping the African fashion ecosystem.
Welcome back to Africa Reimagined. Firstly, a huge thank you to everyone who has gotten in touch about the 54/54 series offering support or brand spotlight ideas, please keep them coming. If you don’t know what it is, you can read about the launch here and the first feature on Kenyan sportswear brand Enda here. (Hint: This month, we’re travelling to Addis Ababa, Ethiopia, so subscribe to follow along and see who we profile on our travels around the continent.)
For today’s newsletter, I sat down with Frederica Brooksworth, a true force in the African fashion industry. For those who are not familiar with her work, let me give you a quick rundown: Brooksworth has spent over 10 years building her academic career, lecturing students at prominent fashion universities, including London College of Fashion, British School of Fashion and Condé Nast College of Fashion and Design. In 2021, she launched the Council for International African Fashion Education (CIAFE) with the aim of “advancing and decentralising fashion education and research in Africa.” Last year, she published her latest book, How To Become A Fashion Academic.
I called Brooksworth last week to discuss the launch of her newest venture, the African Fashion Development Initiative (AFDI). The newly formed business has an ambitious target of strengthening Africa’s fashion ecosystem at all points of the value chain—from designers to seamstresses. The goal is to equip entrepreneurs with the capital and education needed to grow sustainable businesses. Strategic advisors include industry leaders Sara Sozzani Maino, creative director at Fondazione Sozzani, Ekow Barnes, editor and multi-hyphenate, and Lulu Shabell, chief executive and chief creativity champion at consulting firm Lulubell Group.
“I don’t want to simply focus on designers,” said Brooksworth. “I want to see small production units, tailors, seamstresses, pattern cutters, people who deal with fabrics, upcyclers, etc. They are also contributing to this ecosystem.”
This inaugural year will see three fashion entrepreneurs awarded $500 each. One recipient will receive the micro-grant per quarter. Applicants must have sustainable solutions — environmental, social and economic — and must seek to create job opportunities. They’re currently accepting applications for Q2; you can apply here. A word of advice from Brooksworth: “Put a lot of effort into your application… show us how your business is actually contributing to the African fashion ecosystem.”
Inside today’s newsletter, we unpack:
Why fashion entrepreneurs and skilled workers form key pillars of the industry, yet access to funding is minimal
The importance of formalising the African fashion industry. It’s time to do things by the book
How AFDI intends to enhance financial literacy among recipients to prevent mismanaging funds
Brooksworth and I had a great conversation, and as usual, the juicy insights are hidden behind the paywall.
Let’s dive in!
