The New Guard of African Fashion

Introducing 54/54, a new series highlighting intriguing brands, stylists, agencies and consultants who are working on a local level to transform Africa's fashion and beauty markets.

Photo: Kyle Weeks

Happy Monday, and welcome back to Africa Reimagined. Today’s newsletter is a little different.

Since launching this substack, I’ve received many pitches and requests to do single-brand features spotlighting designers and businesses on the continent. (A huge thank you to everyone who has reached out.) I’ve been ruminating on this for a while, trying to fit it into my wider thesis for this newsletter.

That’s where 54/54 comes in.

Not to sound like a broken record, as I fear I say this in every newsletter, but there’s so much happening on the continent that we know very little about.

Spending more time here has allowed me to connect with those keeping Africa’s fashion and beauty industries alive. I’m talking about those who work on a local level to keep the wheels turning and form a vital pillar of the domestic ecosystem. From academics to investors, designers to consultants, there’s a large pool of creatives attempting to strengthen and transform the market. Whilst visiting Lagos, Abidjan, Nairobi, and Accra, I’ve met a handful of industry professionals who are doing just that. Yet, only a small percentage will see their work travel internationally.

That’s especially true in the fashion space. This paradigm puts great pressure on heavyweight designers, who must constantly innovate in order to maintain international appeal. Failure to do so raises questions. I remember attending a breakfast event in London a couple of years ago where I was asked: “What happened to [*African designers] that everyone was talking about a decade ago?” She wasn’t the first and probably won’t be the last to ask this question, and I find myself thinking back to this moment a lot. It highlighted that those designers who break out internationally are put on a pedestal, and it feels like the fate of an entire industry falls on them. It’s a difficult position to be in as the fashion industry can be deeply unforgiving, leaving very little room for error. But the truth is many will come and go, just like their peers have done in the US, Europe, Asia and beyond.

In an attempt to ease that pressure, I want this series to spotlight those individuals who are transforming the market on a local level. Whether it’s working with international brands to help them launch in a major African city or strengthening streetwear culture in Addis Ababa, Ethiopia, 54/54 will be a great way for you, the reader — and me, the writer — to discover interesting businesses and designers who have yet to hit the global stage.

How it Works

At least once a month, I’ll profile a creative and/or industry leader from one of the 54 African nations. We’ll unpack the opportunities and challenges in the domestic market and dissect the shopping habits of consumers locally. The goal is to gain granular insight into the market and better understand the nuances of the African fashion and/or beauty industry.

With that said, I have a few newsletters lined up for the next couple of months, but if you’re a consultant, academic, designer, photographer, stylist, business owner — or someone doing interesting things in the fashion and beauty space — please get in touch with me at ezreenbenissan@gmail.com. I’m keen to spotlight as many industry leaders as possible – the aim is to hit all 54 countries. I know some countries will be harder than others, but I’m up for the challenge.

Our first stop? We’re heading to East Africa.

*names have been redacted

---

Thank you for reading.

If you’re enjoying this newsletter so far, don’t forget to subscribe and share it with your network, friends and colleagues. See you on Wednesday.