The Fashion Creatives Impacted By The Kantamanto Market Fire
Last week's devastating fire at Kantamanto Market has left thousands without their main source of income. I spoke to fashion designers and stylists about its impact.
Editor’s Letter: Happy New Year! This newsletter was originally meant to be a reflective one, looking back at all the exciting shifts that happened in the African fashion space, and predicting what might happen in 2025. However, I’m in Ghana (where I’ve been for the past couple of months now), and it feels remiss not to highlight the devastating fire that swept through Kantamanto market last Wednesday. You can donate here.
In the heart of Ghana’s bustling capital, you’ll find Kantamanto market. It’s the biggest secondhand market in West Africa, where many fast-fashion giants (and many other fashion brands) dump their waste. Over the past couple of years, the market has gained international recognition thanks to social media and key organisations such as The Or Foundation, which continuously spotlights the impact of secondhand waste. Most recently, Netflix released a documentary unpacking the damaging effect fast fashion has on communities in Ghana, many of which have witnessed their vibrant beaches turn into graveyards of unwanted clothes. My former colleague Bella Webb wrote a piece last week unpacking the impact the recent fire could have on sustainable fashion. (You can read it here.)
There is no doubt that this fire will have a profound impact on Ghana’s economy too. In 2022, Ghana imported $164 million worth of used clothing, a slight drop from the $214 million worth of garments imported into the country a year prior.
But beyond global fashion brands, thousands of people have lost a vital source of consistent income. Kantamanto market was more than just a home for fast-fashion brands and excess waste from the West. People hustled six days a week (the market is closed on Sundays) to make crucial income. There was also a strong sense of community, camaraderie and creativity within the market, an energy that united business owners and the youth.
“It wasn’t only about the market, it was about the joy we were getting out of it. It was about the creative light that was shining on me and other boys my age.” Kelly Morgan, 20, stylist
As I’m in Accra, Ghana, I’ve had the opportunity to connect with those directly impacted by the devastating fire that took place on 2 January. Many people worked fiercely to keep the market alive, without them, Kantamanto wouldn’t be what it was. Kelly Morgan, an Accra-based fashion stylist, Richard Asante, founder of the streetwear brand Alpha Costume, and upcycler Emmanuel Tetteh share how Kantamanto market shaped their lives as fashion creatives.
Kantamanto Market And The Local Fashion Crowd
In 2018, during his first year at university, fashion stylist Morgan would often venture into the market during his spare time to hunt for niche and rare brands that were difficult to purchase in Ghana. He’d find a mix of names such as outerwear brands like Carhartt and Arc'teryx, or high-end names such as Rick Owens and Maison Margiela MM6. At the time, the fashion community was nascent, with many unfamiliar with international labels, he said.
Unaware of these brands’ global status, Morgan initially sold some designer pieces for 20 cedis ($1.35), he explained. To boost sales, he started modelling items he found in the market and posted them on social media. “Kantamanto built my everything,” he said. “It helped young people notice my Instagram; It helped me make money by selling pieces to people. That’s how I [stumbled] into becoming a stylist.” Last year, he styled Afrobeat artist Burna Boy.
The market was an integral part of Ghana’s youth culture, a nexus between fashion and young people. It became a trend for young teens and adults to source internationally recognised brands from the market and create content for social media. “It wasn’t only about the market,” said Morgan. “It was about the joy we were getting out of it. It was about the creative light that was shining on me and other boys my age.”
Kantamanto market has, in part, allowed creatives to see their work featured in international publications and has brought creative projects to the country. Every campaign shoot, fashion editorial or creative project shot in Ghana has a connection to Kantamanto market, argued Morgan. “If you ask any stylist here, a lot of their pieces are coming from the market,” he said, adding that he recently worked on a campaign film for a sportswear giant, where he sourced some clothes from the market. “This doesn’t only affect us, it’s a global issue,” he added. Through his shop in Kantamanto, Morgan would make anywhere between 1,000 ($67) to 3,000 ($202) cedis a month.
There was an entrepreneurial spirit among Ghana’s youth. The market turned many teenagers and young adults into business owners. That was the case for Richard Asante, who first started working in the market in 2012. “Kantamanto has been the main source of income since the age of 16… Everything I know as a designer, I learned from Kantamanto by myself and with the help of my friends,” he said. Asante’s uncle, who also used to sell secondhand clothes in the market, taught him how to source fabrics from other sellers, and he began experimenting with different design techniques. His upcycled brand, Alpha Costume, blends fabrics such as curtains and bedsheets to create unique streetwear pieces. Last year, he was part of The Or Foundation’s six-month incubator and also completed an exchange programme with Institut Français de la Mode, which led him to showcase his collection at Printemps in Paris.
“Through Kantamanto, I was able to purchase a couple of [sewing] machines which have been [destroyed] by the fire,” he said. Asante expected to make roughly 50,000 cedis ($3,374) in revenue this year. Now he plans to use the last of his savings to keep the business afloat and fulfil existing orders. Asante says he will work with local tailors to produce his garments and replace the several fabric bolts damaged by the fire. He plans to get his shop in the market back up and running as soon as possible.
For Emmanuel Tetteh, Kantamanto market has always played an important role in his career. His previous job in the banking sector saw him frequent the market often, regularly pitching his company’s firm to business owners. He met various entrepreneurs, some in the culinary industry and others in the homeware business, but the market’s vibrant fashion scene grabbed his attention the most. “I was always in Kantamanto looking for clients to open an account with our bank, but I happened to see a cool pair of upcycled jeans which caught my attention,” he said.
“I’ve always wanted to enter into fashion but I didn’t really know which direction. But seeing that pair of jeans and meeting Alpha [Costume] and the rest of the [fashion] guys in the market, it brought out the spark that I needed to get started,” he added. Tetteh was also part of the cohort that worked with The Or Foundation, where he learnt more about the upcycling process.
Tetteh said he had 13,500 cedis ($911) worth of stock that was ruined in the fire. “Everything was destroyed. I have stuff to deliver, but I can’t. It’s been quite tough for me trying to explain to my customers that this is the problem right now and they should give me some time,” he said. “I really don’t like to disappoint people.”
The local fashion crowd has long argued that there is more to Kantamanto market than fast-fashion brands. It’s an important medium for sales, and without it, the livelihoods of the local community hang in the air.
How to Help
If you can, please donate to The Or Foundation, which is working directly with the local community to help those impacted by the devastating fire. Donations will be used to purchase resources needed to rebuild the market, and keep individuals afloat physically and financially, the organisation said. Link to donate here.
Thank you for reading.
If you’d like to get in touch or feel there’s a pressing topic affecting fashion and beauty in Africa, please email me at ezreenbenissan@gmail.com. Find me on LinkedIn or Instagram.